I started into the jewelry making purely from very exploratory view. I had no inkling that it would one day come to be my crutch. Things were not easy and each lesson at the beginning seemed to teach me to be more cautious. It wouldn't be wrong to say that it now becomes 'a time when I knew nothing phase'. When I made up my mind to be serious about it, I had to learn the basics, a lot at the beginning through google and soon through experience as well. As this year ends and I see myself moving in a new direction (from a jewellery making perspective and otherwise) I am hoping to unburden some of my knowledge onto you unsuspecting folks.
Basic Jewellery Tools Part 1- Pliers
You will need the bare basics, which are available in your local tool store.
Generally you do not use more than 3 basic pliers, unless you are using it for wire bending jewelry. So make sure you know the usage of the pliers you are buying before making the final purchase. Listed below are the most commonly used pliers in Jewelry. Most of the time they have a specific use, the first three are the most essential to possess.
1. Needle nosed Pliers ( Sometimes we refer to them as flat nosed pliers as well, but know that there is also a different Flat nosed pliers in the market)
This is the most essential of tools, it is but our hand in this profession. I would recommend investing in a good, strong one.
2. Round nosed pliers
Used to make perfect round shaped bends in the wires used for binding jewelry together. The size of the loop depends upon where the wire is placed. The tip has the tiniest circumference and as you go alone the nose the circumference increases..
3.Diagonal Cutter/ flush cutters
Its used to cut wires. The cut is diagonal to aid cutting the wires even in small crevices. I personally use a Nail cutter for most things, except where the metal is harder to cut. It's inexpensive, so I don't mind replacing it when it goes blunt ( which it will quicker than a cutter).
4.Chain-nosed Pliers
It has slightly serrated edges and a lot of times also includes a cutter notch at the end of the pliers. It is used to hold wires, such that they do not move. Drawback is sometimes the wires get damaged or scratched because of its edges.
5. Long nosed pliers: It is a variation of the needle nosed pliers, with a longer nose to reach difficult to reach places and a slimmer tip. What I noticed however is, because of the long nose, I find it difficult to use , unless specifically needed.
6. Bent nosed pliers: As the name suggests the pliers have a bent tip to enable the plier to reach at a particular angle.
7. Looping Pliers/ concave Pliers
One prong is a concave surface and the other is a round nose to give proper round loops.
8. Flat Nosed Pliers
They have a broad tip and have surface, used usually to flatten surfaces or wires.
9. Crimping Pliers
They have small holes to be able to press the crimp on the wires. They utilise a specific technique to make the crimps look like beads and takes practice to handle. Personally I have only used a Needle nose plier for crimps to flatten my crimps.
Certain things to look out for in a pair of pliers
The Spring :
Firstly the spring loaded Pliers are more easily available and usually less expensive, give them a miss. Over a period of time the spring itself starts losing its springiness or worse yet, it comes out all together.I have personally faced both and since it's a tool we use almost everywhere, it makes more sense to invest in a Pliers once, but a good one. I suggest you buy the pronged type of pliers. There are also pliers available without the springs at all, may be a tad difficult to use but have other advantages.
The Metal:
The second thing to look for is the metal used. Currently I have two pliers I use myself, one is stainless steel and the other I bought after showing the first one, so I am guessing that too is the same. You get the more rudimentary ones, which in India are liable to rusting. The second advantage to good quality pliers is that they scratch less and have much smoother surfaces so the wires have less to no damage.
The tip:
A lot of times we need to make cuts or bends in a wire which require a very minimal tip to the pliers. After a lot of handicap I realised, having a fine the tip can be fragile at the same time very useful. In India I have found, the Pliers without a spring has a fine tip and most jewelers who deal in gold and silver jewelry also use it. But they may rust, so store them in a plastic box or a bag after use. It may also take some oiling once in a while.
The grip:
Its very important for the Pliers to not slip, there is a good chance you may injure your jewelry or worse yet, yourself. Rubber grips are the best or the ones with anti slip surfaces.
The cost of the pliers range anywhere from Rs 50/- up-to Rs 5000/-. Of-course the more expensive ones are largely not made (read sold) in India. Do not follow the misnomer, if they are from abroad they will be good, buy locally it is easier to procure another one if necessary without paying bucket-loads of money. To recap, always keep two needle nosed pliers and a round nosed pliers in your tools box.
P.S : If you have any questions regarding these tools or any other jewelry tools and if I am able to I will do my best to answer them. Post your queries in the comments below.
Basic Jewellery Tools Part 1- Pliers
You will need the bare basics, which are available in your local tool store.
Generally you do not use more than 3 basic pliers, unless you are using it for wire bending jewelry. So make sure you know the usage of the pliers you are buying before making the final purchase. Listed below are the most commonly used pliers in Jewelry. Most of the time they have a specific use, the first three are the most essential to possess.
 |
| clockwise from Yellow- round nosed pliers, straight cutter, diagonal cutters, Crimping pliers, Needle nosed plier ( smaller and finer tip size) , Needle nosed pliers bigger size. |
1. Needle nosed Pliers ( Sometimes we refer to them as flat nosed pliers as well, but know that there is also a different Flat nosed pliers in the market)
This is the most essential of tools, it is but our hand in this profession. I would recommend investing in a good, strong one.
2. Round nosed pliers
Used to make perfect round shaped bends in the wires used for binding jewelry together. The size of the loop depends upon where the wire is placed. The tip has the tiniest circumference and as you go alone the nose the circumference increases..
3.Diagonal Cutter/ flush cutters
Its used to cut wires. The cut is diagonal to aid cutting the wires even in small crevices. I personally use a Nail cutter for most things, except where the metal is harder to cut. It's inexpensive, so I don't mind replacing it when it goes blunt ( which it will quicker than a cutter).
4.Chain-nosed Pliers
 |
| long nosed pliers- image source google |
5. Long nosed pliers: It is a variation of the needle nosed pliers, with a longer nose to reach difficult to reach places and a slimmer tip. What I noticed however is, because of the long nose, I find it difficult to use , unless specifically needed.
 |
| Bent nosed pliers, image source google |
6. Bent nosed pliers: As the name suggests the pliers have a bent tip to enable the plier to reach at a particular angle.
7. Looping Pliers/ concave Pliers
One prong is a concave surface and the other is a round nose to give proper round loops.
 |
| flat nosed pliers, this one also has serrated edges like a chain nosed pliers. - image source google |
8. Flat Nosed Pliers
They have a broad tip and have surface, used usually to flatten surfaces or wires.
9. Crimping Pliers
They have small holes to be able to press the crimp on the wires. They utilise a specific technique to make the crimps look like beads and takes practice to handle. Personally I have only used a Needle nose plier for crimps to flatten my crimps.
Certain things to look out for in a pair of pliers
The Spring :
 |
| pronged spring |
The Metal:
The second thing to look for is the metal used. Currently I have two pliers I use myself, one is stainless steel and the other I bought after showing the first one, so I am guessing that too is the same. You get the more rudimentary ones, which in India are liable to rusting. The second advantage to good quality pliers is that they scratch less and have much smoother surfaces so the wires have less to no damage.
The tip:
A lot of times we need to make cuts or bends in a wire which require a very minimal tip to the pliers. After a lot of handicap I realised, having a fine the tip can be fragile at the same time very useful. In India I have found, the Pliers without a spring has a fine tip and most jewelers who deal in gold and silver jewelry also use it. But they may rust, so store them in a plastic box or a bag after use. It may also take some oiling once in a while.
The grip:
Its very important for the Pliers to not slip, there is a good chance you may injure your jewelry or worse yet, yourself. Rubber grips are the best or the ones with anti slip surfaces.
The cost of the pliers range anywhere from Rs 50/- up-to Rs 5000/-. Of-course the more expensive ones are largely not made (read sold) in India. Do not follow the misnomer, if they are from abroad they will be good, buy locally it is easier to procure another one if necessary without paying bucket-loads of money. To recap, always keep two needle nosed pliers and a round nosed pliers in your tools box.
~ Reaching for my toolkit
Richa
P.S : If you have any questions regarding these tools or any other jewelry tools and if I am able to I will do my best to answer them. Post your queries in the comments below.
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