Travelogue 2018- Bekal Fort

Tu hire ... Tu hire... Tere bina mai kaise jiu!

With this song stuck in my head for years and years together, Bombay had taken up a spot with Roja for one of my favourite songs. I hadn't even known this song was shot at Bekal, until I compared photos when my friend offered this information to me. So much so for favourite song!

Enroute ...near Chikkamangaluru

I traveled to Mangalore, on a long weekend, but it was sprung upon me as a surprise, so I had no plans in place, nor had I ever even googled about Mangalore before so I was really walking in the dark into this trip. The drive was long and we spent a good 8-10 hours driving to Mangalore from Bangalore and my (driver) friend was exhausted and we didn't venture out to see much of the town that day. We sat at a near by beach late at night ( 8pm) that day, just unwinding with the sound of the waves, because we couldnt see anything at all. 

The following day we went to visit Bekal fort on my insistence. 

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Bekal,+Kerala/Mangalore,+Karnataka/@12.6670864,74.6542151,10z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x3ba480f7348902fd:0x7bcde484bd599d6a!2m2!1d75.0231457!2d12.4203532!1m5!1m1!1s0x3ba35a4c37bf488f:0x827bbc7a74fcfe64!2m2!1d74.8559568!2d12.9141417!3e0

Mangalore- Bekal distance is approx 65 Kms with a travel time of 1 hr 30 minutes give or take 15 minutes and traffic conditions. After a simple breakfast on the way, we left for Bekal Fort ( Kasargod). Do remember that you cross statelines from Karnataka to Kerela. I can vouch for the sheer difference in the view as you move into Kerela. ( I have added links below for information about the fort itself)

   

Arriving into Bekal Fort the first impression is, its huge! It took us an hour just to walk around the ramparts of the fort and we didn't even really spend a lot of time exploring things. If it wasn't crazy hot I would have happily spent more time there, looking at the waves crash into the beach. Fortunately the fort has been well maintained. There are good maps and directions posted all around. Refreshments were a god send to us in the sweltering heat. The view from the lookout point that goes into the Sea, with the beach on two sides is Ah-ma-zing and not to miss!

                      

Future visits 

The two things I will look forward to on a future visit ( if and when it happens)... I have heard that they may soon be having a light and sound show at the fort, so that's number 1! Personally although I haven't tried this, but I also hear that camping is allowed in a coconut grove in Bekal Fort and that's another. Two mighty good reasons to want to come back!

Reference Websites 

https://www.incredibleindia.org/content/incredible-india-v2/en/destinations/bekal.html

http://www.keralaculture.org/bekal-fort-heritage-monuments/441

https://www.bekal.com/pages/bekal-fort

https://www.keralatourism.org/destination/bekal-kasaragod/259

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bekal_Fort

https://www.bekaltourism.com/bekal-fort.php

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangalore

A promise to come again

My little slice of heaven- Mandav ( Mandu) Madhya Pradesh

In one of the darkest of my days, the only beacon of light was this 3 weeks trip with my parents to Madhya Pradesh. If I am very honest, I had the lowest of expectations when my parents were busy planning the trip. I didn't have any inputs because because it was surprise for me. This is by far one of the longest trips and if I may say so, one of the most satisfying trips of my life. Satisfaction came from the simplicity of being in Madhya Pradesh, a state I never knew could hold such wonder for me.  

I will try and list out the places we visited in this 3 week journey, but it's been a while and I may skip through a few places. If I look through my photos though I am sure, I will relive this journey again. 

Itinerary

https://www.google.com/maps/d/drive?state=%7B%22ids%22%3A%5B%221AZ3npEvcW7xgvQwBNWk3KCuREC-TR7W0%22%5D%2C%22action%22%3A%22open%22%2C%22userId%22%3A%22107852364240794951442%22%7D&usp=sharing

Indore- Mandu- Ujjain-  Maheshwar- Omkareshwar- Gyarasspur- Bhopal- Sanchi ( Vidhisha)- Bhojpur- Bhimbhetka- Bhedaghat-Panchmarhi- Chittrakoot- Khajuraho- Chhatarpur ( Raneh Falls)- Orchha- Shivpuri- Gwalior ( Lastly a train back from Jhansi) ( In no particular Order)

Now as I sifted through my photos , I had to google a few names because I clearly don't have a memory as good as I had thought. There is no way in a million years I am going to be able to write about all the places I visited in that 3 week tenure in one post. So I will try and break it down as best as I can. The reason I am picking Mandu is because I enjoyed it the most. I have the most photos here and for me it set the mood for the entire journey as we went to different places following Mandu. 

We landed in Indore, okay so when I say landed I don't mean by flight, we went by train like an old fashioned middle class family.  That's how our vacations always were, and we kept to it even this day and age. Apart from the fact that train travel was cheaper, I always felt that, trains bring with it a different nostalgia making it memorable and special. We actually booked everything through MPTDC office in Pune, yes the entire trip. We got a private car and driver to be our guide in MP. After half a day exploring Indore , we left for Mandu. 

http://www.mptourism.com/tourist-places/places-to-visit-in-mandu.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandu,_Madhya_Pradesh

Mandu in its turn greeted us with rains and clouds everywhere. We drove through narrow roads , with the clouds whistling around us. The banks of the rivers/ lakes all over flowing to make sure we knew what monsoons here felt like, really felt like. The architecture in Mandu will leave you amazed at all that it has to offer. There are tales of Dai Khana, where sounds echo, the elephants stables, the palaces with refined water ducts that were way ahead of their times. Apart from the usual touristy places the atmosphere here is just worth exploring silently. We were here for almost 2 whole days and I must say it was totally worth it, infact given an options I would have stayed there longer. While we were put in one of the MPTDC resorts, they were not luxurious and the one we stayed at was even less so. Inspite of which I still remember the wonderful Indori poha and Chai. For the first time in my life I voluntarily had tea because it was what the weather called for. 

One of the star attractions here is the Rani Roopmati palace,and if you get a guide, they will tell you about the love story between Rani Roopmati and Baz Bahadur! You can view the Baz Bahadur Palace from the Roopmati Pavillion and vice versa, there even is a story that goes with this. 

Rani Roopmati Pavillion

We made two visits here because of the closing times we managed to landed just in time to see the Jahaz mahal, but didn't have the time to explore the ruins of the Mandu fort and Hindola Mahal just adjacent to it. 

Jahaz Mahal

Baz Bahadur Palace ( background view of the Rani Roopmati Pavillion)

Hindola Mahal 

Within the boundaries of the Mandu Fort you will find this structure which plays with the wind.

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hindola_Mahal

 

Ashrafi Mahal (ruins) 

Just opposite the Jami Masjid are these ruins. It wasnt a big crowd puller but there are some persian inscriptions and part ramparts of the fort still there to be seen. 

Ashrafi Mahal (ruins) 

Hosahang Shah's tomb 

Just along the Jami Masjid are two tombs with a small baodi. 

Hosahang Shah's tomb 

Jami Masjid

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jama_Masjid,_Mandu

Darwaja ( various ones)

There are many gates and you drive towards Mandu. One such gate is the one that points in the direction of Delhi. From the Delhi Darwaja you can also see another Darwaja. 

 

Echo Point ( Dai-khana)

Our driver told us about this one. They say, when a child was born the dai ( Midwife) would shout out and there were different tomb like structures places at regular intervals, where the sound would reflect and carry forward. If this were true think about the engineering forethought of our ancestors. There are a smattering of them all over Mandu. 

Ujala Baodi

One of the step wells at Mandu. Its mostly a ruin now though, it was deserted when we visited, so I am not sure if it is even open to the public. There is an elephant stable also close to this. 

Songargh Fort ( Gate)

The ruins of Songargh fort entry gate because that is all that remains here. we came across it as we were exiting Mandu and heading towards Maheshwar. 

Our MPTDC Hotel overlooked the valley, so was also a perfect spot for a sunset, which we couldn't take advantage of due to the rain. On one of the nights we had a fright, supposedly a leopard had visited the premises and taken a dog prey. Fortunately we were leaving the same day, but it chilled us to the bone , just imagining it. The resort had a few rooms, a basic restaurant and a couple of tents as well to stay. They food was very basic but good. You can also find small local eateries. 

After exploring Mandu, we headed towards Maheshwar, our next destination in the 3 week long trip. 

<3 Rich

Travalogue 2018- Gandikota, Andhra Pradesh.

This was the year I wanted to travel to atleast 12 places ( which I technically did). I ended up visiting Belum and Ganditkota twice, both in the winter. This is by far the best time to visit since it is a very rocky terrain and even in winter the temperatures were high enough during the day. Since the fort would take anything between 2 hours to 6 hours depending on how seriously you are exploring, good weather is a necessity rather than an attraction. 

January 2018: Gandikota

Nov 2018: Gandikota 

#Ganditkota is a (sand) fort in Andhra Pradesh. You will find small community of people still living there in and around the fort. At one end of the fort there is a mosque, next to it a temple ruin and at the very end of that same trail you get to the best view of the Canyon!!! The fort has an elaborate entrance, and from atop the entrance you can see the entire expanse of the fort. Near the entrance you have a pigeon tower and to the left of the tower is a huge granary and a little ahead of the granary is a temple and a water tank. If you explore you'll see some farming and hear namaz. The little hustle and bustle added to the over all vibe of the place. The last time I was there, the fort was still being developed as a tourist attraction.

Different views in and around Gandikota Fort- Andhra Pradesh

 

I went to Belum caves and Gandikota twice in 2018. Who knew 2020 would make me feel nostalgic. With this lockdown amid Covid fears travel seems like a distant dream, but not every year can be perfect. Although I have visited only twice, somehow, slowly it has creeped into my top ten places to visit. I still have a trip to make for some adventure sports, especially rafting. I got a little taste of what could be in store when I walked along the edge of the gorge, here in my last trip. 2 years already seems far too long ago to me. I know that words are not enough to express the beauty and allure of Gandikota. There are so many things to enjoy here apart form the Canyon. The view of rolling mountains spotted with windmills, the walls of the fort bathed in the rays of the rising sun.That’s why, I definitely recommend an overnight stay at the Haritha Resorts (APTDC). If you are in Bangalore, a weekend trip would be perfect teamed up with Belum Caves as well, only 60 kms away.  

Both times I have been by private vehicle, so I am clueless about how to go there by public transport. I missed staying overnight on my first visit but I was determined to stay there for the second one. 

The first visit I chose to stay in Kurnool which was 100 kms away from Belum and another 60 from Gandikota. My first Gandikota visit was a bit rushed, Belum caves and Gandikota both in one day. Honestly I don’t remember much except the little photos I took at the viewpoint of the Canyon. So I promised myself the next time I will be here for the sunset and sunrise and everything in between. Oh boy! Am I glad I could keep the promise to myself. 

Gandikota at the Canyon viewpoint, January 2018 

     

I am a firm believer in the Government run accommodation, they are economical and almost always close to the attractions. They help with arranging tours too. Online booking is available, sometimes only booking online is an option. The downside being, they aren't as luxurious or at times don't even make good first impressions.

I missed staying overnight on my first visit but I was determined to stay there for the second one.

APTDC also has accommodation available here. It's within walking distance from the fort ( less than or about 1km). The APTDC also has camping facilities. One can camp there with their own tent as well as rent a tent to stay. The AC tents are placed a little further, near the fort walls, along the valley while their rooms are in a different place. They have a restaurant which provides simple fare, when I last visited this was the only place for miles that provided any food ( apart from the locals, who I am not sure about). A small trek down the cliff into the Canyon and there you can do river rafting in the Pennar River as well as stay in tents along the banks.

Gandikota Nov 2018

Near the APTDC tents, at sunrise.

I was lucky enough to view both a sunrise and sunset here. Well more than lucky, it was by design. I got caught in the rain on the evening before, so although it wasn't an ideal sunset, the atmosphere was truly romantic. We were at the fort when we spotted the rain clouds closing in on us. I remember looking at the Dam ( not sure which one) from the ruins of a temple and seeing the rain. We ran, but within 5 minutes we were soaked as we made our way back to the hotel.

Sunset : top pic
Sunrise bottom Pic

Leaving some foot prints behind that got entangled in my memory.

Reference Websites : 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gandikota

https://www.tripadvisor.in/Attraction_Review-g9596249-d3203584-Reviews-Gandikota_Fort-Gandikota_Kadapa_District_Andhra_Pradesh.html

Travelogue 2018- January, Mysuru, Karnataka

Coming today to an intrinsic part of my life goals is travel. Every year I just renew them at new year. Although I have never really sat down and thought them out I have monthly budgets for them this year. In January alone I managed to do a bit of local travel which wasn't really much by design but by accident. There are only a certain caliber of travelers who can achieve this. 
I sat one evening chatting with my flatmate and generally talking about making a trip to Goa. She is one of those who loves to have a standard measurement to travel and luxury, is a key component in it. Yes in most cases luxury is important but in the past I have planned a non luxurious holiday as well, which have not only brought me joy but also a bucket loads of memories.  I have lived Goa in resorts with my family at 5000Rs a night and at 70 Rs a night with my friends in the same year. I have enjoyed both holidays in their own element. I haven't placed myself in any category as yet. I enjoy them for their own elements. Although I am not sure how much roughing it I can manage, so yet to see. Last year alone I had been bungee jumping and trekking in Manali. A year of adventure and loss and regaining fitness goals. If I at any point, want to do it this year, fitness has to be a year round goal. And I am lazy about it. One thing is for sure I wont be able to do it with the way I am right now. 

 I have set a goal for myself to do 12 places in 12 months, travel can be erratic so I have to try harder every single time. In January , as I mentioned before I managed to do a fair bit of local sight seeing, very touristy. Traveled by car and went to see these places from "view points".

Starting with Mysore, where I was exactly on the 1st of Jan. 

On the 1st of January 2018, I was in Mysuru with Pritesh, we went walking around and sought out some sights there... but the one where we spent the most amount of time on the last night of 2017! Priya joined us just as we reached one of the entrances of the palace. From here we went to the sand sculpture museum, the sea shell museum, walked along the Mysuru Zoo and came to the Musuru Palace just as it was lit in all its glory. There were to be fireworks here, but we had walked around 15 kms that night and were dead tired! I remember seeing 3 entrances to the Palace ( there may be more). On two ends there are temples which add to the glamour of the whole Palace. We were lucky enough to be at the Palace on New year's eve so it was lit all evening! We walked in at around 7 and were there till 10pm or so.

For more information follow the link to their official page

https://www.mysorepalace.gov.in

Priya has her own travel blog/ page which you can follow called backpack n brushes.

Mysuru -2

In the earlier part of the post, I mentioned having visited the Sand sculpture museum. Here is one of my best photos from that entire collection. It is one of the lesser known attractions of the city near Chamundi Hills. It isn't too big but they probably have 150 odd sculptures there over a varied range of topics, like cartoons, cars, figurines from different cultures, sea world, Indian mythology, made with only sand and water surprisingly.They have an entry fee , which is meager and worth it. It may take an hour or so to weave yourself through the entire museum. There is information about the artist, MN Gowri at the gate. They are open during the day from 8:30 to 18:30.

Follow the link below for more information.
https://www.museumsofindia.org/…/mysore-sand-sculpture-muse…

After the Sand museum, we went to the Sea shell museum which is right on the opposite side of the road. Its a must must must visit. Entry is almost 20 Rs or so but oh my god the amount of work the Artist has put into collecting, buying shells and then making them into artifacts is mindblowing. The artist herself is present at the museum , she may even show you around if you ask her to. She has used all kinds of shells in her work. She also holds a Guinness book world record for the tallest structure made with shells, which although an impressive feat is not her best work! You will see a Philomena Church, Tajmahal which is so intricate , one would be astounded. Also interestingly she has created art with a whole other host of materials as well. It is a good browse! 

Radha Mallappa : Artist.
have a look at this simple youtube documentary for a virtual tour. ( not my video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aluxrcBzrxM

While walking back from the sea shell museum we came across this structure bathed in green light! At the time I didnt know what it was except that it looked wonderful. It's a Gazebo in Kupanna Park ( Nishant Bagh). It seems there are plans to start a musical fountain show here ( it may have already started) . Right next to it was a glass house being built when I visited.

Here is some background information about Kupanna Park
http://mysore.ind.in/nishat-bagh

Another Gem in Mysuru... Hardinge Circle also known to the locals as Aru Gate. Six major roads converge at this circle , hence the name Aru gate.This is also located just around the corner from The Palace. The gazebo like structure houses a Life size statue of the last Wadiyar King, Sri Jayachamarajendra Wadiyar.

This Hindu Article surmises the work that went on for the Statue

http://www.thehindu.com/…/a-tribute-to-m…/article6779800.ece  

An early morning #Lakewalk gave us some nice energy that carried us into the evening. We walked around #Lingambudhi lake with a couple of dogs and then eventually came out the entrance   surprisingly it was quite lonely, which was quite enjoyable.

https://www.karnataka.com/mysore/lingambudhi-lake/

This brings me to end of my little fairy tale in Mysuru. Lastly I would like to add the route we took, and adding a little details in the very end, we covered a fair bit on foot. A good 15 kms or so of walking. I am sure you have visited a lot more places.... this is just my touch.

<3 Rich

A Painful encounter with health

So this last week I have been in the throes of pain. It feels so crippling. Cannot sit, cannot stand, cannot sleep comfortably, cannot bend, cannot walk. Its like a small part of my back can make life absolutely unbearable. Blood tests determined that I have vitamin B12 and D deficiency. My doctor also said be ready for x-rays, ortho visits because it could very well be something more sinister. My future work and travel plans feel so threatened right now. One whole week, I haven't touched clay and I can already feel my ideas slipping away, my chance at making my art.

But, I got a lot of time on my hands, which is a good thing. I was thinking up of challenges for the next few weeks for other clay artists. I sat and drew literally 5 minute drawings of what I can try to make. Squeezing in 5 minute stretches to strengthen my back while trying to find 15 minutes of sun for my vit D :). Reading self motivation articles and looking at ideas online.
 

With pain brought a realization that my body reacts to everything. The food we eat, the sun light we expose ourselves to, the exercises we do, the laughter we induce. My mind takes swipes at me sometimes, trying to rear ugly pictures of what I might have to give up, quickly followed by depressing thoughts, which I crawl out of, not alone, never by myself. I have found my anchors who help me rise up out of these dark thoughts. I have learnt to understand though, that I will do whatever it takes to stay happy and content, but that does not mean I don't have weaknesses or sadness. I give in to them occasionally with the hope that I will rise out of them a changed person. Only time will tell if I have grown stronger or weaker. 

P.S : Since then my back issues have reduced tremendously firstly due to my doctor's advice to bring my VIT levels up. Secondly to a year of Yoga that has not only made me stronger, more flexible but also thankful to my instructor for being a constant source of inspiration.  I want to continue yoga, when time permits. I only wish that don't become lazy again, due to this prolonged break from it. It's the year 2020 , where COVID 19 has wreaked havoc worldwide. 

<3 Rich

Leading up to Nepal

Yes my heartbeat still rises every time I think about this trip. It was my first real adventure , and you might find at times my writing a little muddled. Forgive me, its been very long since I got my thoughts in order.

Dates: 26- 30 Jan 2017 

It all began with ideas of two plans thrown at me together, Nepal or Rann of Kutchh. Now since I had already seen the Rann of Kutchh and also I couldn't manage two trips almost back to back, the choice was a no brainer. So the first question was popped around October 2016 and because I was a little unsure about it, I had to think about it. Part of it was money and the second part of it was an important life event about to occur around the same time. Most of my travel decisions have been split second ones, and somehow I have managed to see them through before I allow myself to change my mind about it. So I said yes and booked my flight the same evening and eventually got added to the group on Whatsapp. Whatsapp has been such a god sent gift in such cases and ofcourse smart phones  :).  

While researching flights, I had the flight option of the friend who invited me had given, but we were flying from different locations so obviously I had to do my own research, even if a little. All flights to Kathmandu fly via Delhi, that much was obvious from the first few searches. We had people choosing Air India, Jetairways, Royal Nepal and Indigo. People flew in from Hyderabad, Bangalore, Pune, Mumbai and Delhi. I flew Indigo as it was the cheapest and gave me various time options to land into Delhi. I found mine at Rs 14900/- return fare. I think it helped that it was off peak season. Although as a warning be ready to spend a few hours at the airport! Was I glad I booked my flights so far apart, due to last minute airport closures and flight changes ( read delays).   

With the Air tickets booked, there were various other things to consider buying. Starting with a backback! Finally bought my proper trekking backpack from Wildcraft in one of the Christmas sales on Amazon. I encourage people, unless you find something better or cheaper in your local markets year-round, try and buy essentials from online websites during sale seasons, and believe me, they have plenty of them. After buying and selecting my bag, I also ask people to believe in pockets in a bag. Believe me when you don't have any, you keep having to remove all the things from the backpack after going on a torchlit search into a cave.

Step 3 was to buy some trekking shoes and here Decathlon came to my rescue. I went in to buy a pair of shoes and came away buying a water bottle for running, a pair of hand gloves, a future in mind look at what to buy and the pair of trekking shoes. Since this was my first time buying trekking shoes I didn't know what was the right type of shoe to buy and I called up a friend to help me out while choosing. The options include the type of shoes that are for basic trekking that involves not too much rough terrain, another that does the same with waterproofing and so on and so forth. As the shoes get more complicated they also get heavier! I tried on a pair of shoes that was 1/2 a Kg per foot. Suffice to say I couldn't move my legs at all and another first: to want to buy only 'girly' PINK shoes ( because they were lighter). After careful consideration I went for the simplest and cheapest Trekking shoes priced at the time at Rs 1399/-.  

Now onto the fourth, were clothes fit for lower temperatures. We were looking at a range from 2-10 degrees. I felt it best to layer up, like I used to do in the UK. I don't like thermals as are they are extremely itchy, but for those that can handle it.... there is nothing like thermals underneath your clothes especially in sub zero temperatures. I bought a few 3/4 sleeved t-shirts and a couple of tights. Obviously one of the main things was to stock up on Jackets and gloves and woolen socks!!! These on the whole would have been an expensive endeavour. So I did what any girl with strapped cash would do, Beg, Borrow and Steal!

Once you start packing and if you are anything like me, you will end up packing and repacking your stuff over and over again. I am not sure if I like packing or if it makes me nervous that I will for sure forget to carry my toothbrush!

<3 Rich

Belated memories!

I know this sounds extremely cliched, but I have traveled with my parents since I was a child and today its a full blown yearning almost every few weeks! It was a yearly ritual and it was possibly about the different food we got to eat but also about the sights we saw. Now my memory fails me when I try to remember the exact thing we did or place we saw, but there are some weird memories attached to almost all the trips we took. There was the one time when we went to Mount Abu and I remember that place specifically because I slept on my dad's lap in the bus enroute to Mount Abu and it got exceedingly cold as we got closer to it. Then I remember searching for food and all we got was a dingy little place at the roadside. I vividly remember as we sat amongst truck drivers and helpers and such and ate the tastiest Dal Baati with oodles of Ghee there!

Every trip of ours inculcated within us the idea of unity in diversity in India. It sounds such a text book phrase, but when you travel you learn to adapt and accept all the differences. That was the most important lesson we learnt. Since then ( my entire family - including my parents, my brother and me) we have traveled both within India and abroad. Me and my brother did it alone or with friends and my parents still travel together. We have tried our best to keep these memories intact with photographs. Earlier ones through a physical camera roll and negatives and then developing those into prints. Now we have our Point and shoot, and SLR digital cameras! I do have scanned copies of one of our older albums too from our first trip to Ooty!

This is just my way of introduction into writing about what I remember about my travel journeys thus far.

P.S: I finally bought a backpack for traveling

Richa